Jamaica Cottage Shop

Hand-crafted cottages and sheds created by Vermont artisans in the post-and-beam tradition.
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SALE ENDS 9/19/22

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Each of our customers has unique tastes and styles. That is a given with the DIY mindset that so many of our creative clientele share. Because of this, we get tons of requests for uncommon design features. While we offer various siding, roofing, and flooring options for personalization, odd, shaped windows and doors become less frequent in our designs. But that does not mean you can't incorporate odd-shaped windows into your build. We walk you through how to install odd-shaped windows in this DIY custom window installation tutorial.



Some popular and oddball window shapes include:

• Round Windows – these are great if you want a unique and secure way to bring in light. Most round windows come fixed, making them harder to breach. Our hand-crafted roundels may be ordered as is, or encased in an insulated window. They are one-of-a-kind and add a pop of color.

• Octagon Windows – These get placed in the gable ends of some buildings or look great set on either side of a door. This geometric style gives off a fashionable appearance.

• Triangle Windows – Usually, customers build these up near the roofline. Many window manufacturers can build custom windows to match your roof angles.

• Arched Windows – Placing arched windows above a door, or another rectangular window is popular. They would look cute installed along the bearing walls with arch-shaped window shutters too.


A Note About Fully Assembled Buildings

We can install odd-shaped windows with a custom assembled building. We already offer roundels and octagonal windows and may look into selling other shapes in the future. Some of our designs already include roundels, like our Xylia cabin and Writer’s Haven. We charge a small fee per opening for special requests, so be sure to ask our sales team any questions about pricing while you plan out your post and beam building design.


Before you begin, familiarize yourself with this terminology:

Top Plate – A horizontal beam that sits on top of your wall posts.

Nailer – A horizontal board that provides additional structural support and a point where siding gets nailed to. Nailers also function as the bottom support of a window frame.

Stud – Vertical boards used to frame out the sides of your windows and doors.

Corner Blocks – Pieces of lumber with mitered ends that shape out the rough opening for your custom window design. 

Mitered End – The end of a piece of lumber cut at an angle to match the pitch of your roof. Lumber will need mitered ends cut to match the shape of your window. The corner blocks in the image below have mitered ends.

Rough Opening – the width and height of the opening that your window or door will fit in.


Building Odd-Shaped Windows in a Kit

When you are getting a cottage kit and want to install odd-shaped windows, you will need to figure out how to do that on your end. Custom windows do not come with framing and trim. That means you will need to order additional lumber to frame them out. Calculating needed lumber will be your responsibility for getting the correct quantity and lengths.

You can order hemlock and pine boards from our sales team. Additional lumber will not be pre-cut, stickered, or outlined in the cut list or the step-by-step instructions. We ship these in rough lengths (8’, 10’, 12’, etc.). However, with these general guidelines, you will be able to frame out nearly any window shape.


Basic Window Framing Tips

Generally speaking, the first step to framing any window is to create a box with a rough opening that is a ½-inch wider and taller than the overall dimensions of your window. This half-inch provides wiggle room. Then the window fits snugly without needing to be jammed in.


Install Custom-shaped windows above the top plate (in the gable ends), along bearing walls set on nailers, or in dormers. Where ever you choose to place it, make sure that there is enough room for the framing box to be half an inch wider and taller than your window. Utilize mitered corner blocks to fine-tune the shape of your framing to your window.

Here are some general, step-by-step instructions to frame and trim your odd-shaped window.

Step One - Nailers

First, you need to create the bottom base for your window. You will probably want to install a nailer, especially if you want the window to be placed high up in the gable end. The nailer will need to fit snugly between the rafters and have the ends mitered to match the roof pitch. You can also use the top plate as the base, but if the window is going above a door, it might look odd not to have some space between the two elements if there is a lot of space between. If you are installing your window on one of the bearing walls, or below the top plate, you can use the nailers included with your kit.


Step Two - Studs & Headers

For each window, you will also need two studs and a header. Make the header by building another nailer. Create a double-locking header when installing in the gable above the top plate. Create these headers by using two pieces of 2x4 hemlock lumber with mitered ends that match the roof angle. Place one of the 2x4's between the rafters (so the longest point will need to fit between them). The other one needs to be longer since it will be nailed to the inner side of the rafters.


Step Three - Corner Blocks

Octagon windows will require corner blocks, and round windows might benefit from them. Cut a 45-degree angle for the miter. Don’t forget that your rough opening will need to be a half-inch wider and taller than the actual window.


Step Four - Insulated Window Steps

As you are installing your siding, you will need to trim it to match your rough opening. Some people use a router for this step, others use a saw. You can have one person hold the siding from the outside and another person can trace out the shape if you take this route.


If your building is insulated from the outside you will want to add wall sheathing and insulation nailers before you install the siding. Nail these pieces to the exterior wall sheathing. When you add your vapor barrier and insulation you will need to cut out the rough openings in those materials too.


Step Five - Install Your Window

Now you can install the window! Use shims in pairs to center the window in the rough opening on all edges. Insulated windows have flanges, that provide a spot to attach the windows to the nailers you have installed. For insulated buildings, place the window over the vapor barrier, then apply Bituthene over the flange. Bituthene is a waterproofing membrane that seals the window, which will prevent rain and melting snow from leaking inside your building.


Step Six - Finish with Trim

Finally, you will need to install exterior and interior trim. Your trim will create a polished finish to your window installation. We usually trim our windows in pine, 1x3 boards work well. Triangle and octagon-shaped windows need the trim to be mitered to match each angle.


Round and arched windows are a little trickier since you will need to create rounded trim. Some people use small pieces of pine cut into small arches, then piece them together. We find that CDX plywood looks very similar to our pine. You can create a large protractor with string and a pencil to draw the shape of your trim with a pencil. Then, cut it out with a jigsaw.

The interior trim for this roundel was created with two small pieces of plywood. Half circles were cut out, then they were put together to create a circular opening. This trim keeps the roundel in place too.

Conclusion

You have a unique vision for your shed, garage, or cottage. Why not show off your style by installing odd-shaped windows? It’s easier than it looks, and in the end, you will impress all who gaze upon your masterpiece.

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Learn about all of our snazzy roof upgrades to customize the look and functionality of your cottage.
The Roof of your building can really make a statement, and not just aesthetic ones. You can enhance the strength of your structure and add functionally, like shed water and snow away from doors. Combine materials and aesthetics, with structural needs. Then factor in enhanced functionality to create a protective and unique roof perfect for your project.

SURFACE

Jamaica Cottage Shop’s signature roof material is Evergreen 29gauge corrugated metal, but there are TONS of options for a wide variety of styles, looks and colors.

•    Metal and Poly Panels: Corrugated metal roof material comes in 15 different colors to pick from, including the subtly sophisticated Patrician Bronze, the energetic and fun Bright Red, or the new Copper Penny. See the color chart here. 


If you don't plan on insulating your roof, consider adding a few panels of Clear Poly. These clear panels have a corrugated pattern that matches the metal panels, making for relatively easily swap on installation. Place these clear panels strategically to enhance the natural light in just the right spot. 


•    Asphalt and Cedar Shingles: Architectural Asphalt Shingles are a very popular upgrade and generally offer enhanced durability. See swatch sheet here to pick your favorite or match to existing structures on your property, 


Cedar and Shake shingles offer a distinct look and provide a bit of natural insulation. These offer a more stable roof temperature season to season than metal and asphalt roofs. Western Red Cedar shingles are a favorite. Cedar Shakes offer a bit more texture for a rustic and quaint aesthetic.


10x14 Camp Alcove - Exterior
CORRUGATED METAL
Asphalt Shingles or Cedar Shingles make a snazzy roof upgrade, as shown on this Florida Room detached screen house.
ASPHALT SHINGLES
5x10 Chicken Coop with ClearPoly Roof
CLEAR POLY

UNDER THE HOOD

Structural upgrades aren't as easy to show off, but they certainly aren't to be scoffed at. You won't see these upgrades from the outside since they are hidden under your roofing material, but these options provide additional support and protection when added.


These include:

•    Solid Pine Roof Sheathing: This sub-layer of wood right under the roofing material is required when added to insulated or shingled roofs. Adding roof sheathing to an uninsulated metal roof creates a barrier between the building and the roof metal. This can make it more difficult for critters to get in, reduce the effect of the roof metal temperature on the interior on the building, and dampen the sound of falling rain. 


•    Rafter Spacing: Increasing the number of rafters in your building enhances the structural integrity of your roof. This option is often referred to as increasing the load capacity. More rafters mean less space between them. Rafter spacing is often offered in 12", 16" or 24" (measured on center). 24" on-center is the most common. Increase the load capacity by choosing 16". In some cases, even 12" on-center is offered.


•    Rafter Material: The material your rafters are made from can also have an impact on your roof. Hemlock is a hard wood and great for sheds. It's best worked with while it's green. 
If you're planning to insulate your roof, right away consider Kiln Dried Spruce rafters. Help deter mold growth by only insulating lumber that has low moisture content. Kiln-dried lumber will have a lower moisture content than hemlock. If you're not looking to insulate your roof right away, note hemlock can be dried over time. 


•    Insulation: Insulate your building to help regulate the internal temperature. We recommend insulating any structure that's meant to be lived in. Insulated options are also great for storage in hot and cold climates. The "4-Season" option from Jamaica Cottage Shop generally includes vapor barrier, insulation, and interior sheathing. There is a "3-Season" option also. This option efficiently sets the building up to be insulated in the future.  


10x16 Smithaven - Four Season Interior
SHIPLAP PINE INTERIOR SHEATHING
Post and bean 10x16 Smithaven interior with rough sawn hemlock post and beam interior
RAFTERS CAN BE 12", 16" OR 24" ON CENTER

TOP IT OFF

Other fun details can be added to your building for extra pizazz with these stylish cosmetic options.
 

  • WEATHERVANES are quick and easy to install and come in several adorable styles. Our favorites are the shark, the bear, or the moose.
  • A DECORATIVE CUPOLA can transform your shed or cottage into a faux New England-style sugar shack. It sits right on top of your roof, making it very easy to install.
  • If you are getting a metal roof, the PREMIUM TRIM PACKAGE provides metal trim that matches your roof color. Enclosure strips fit under the metal roofing and ridge cap. These foam strips fill in the tiny gaps created from the ribbed pattern in the panels. 
  • COPPER ROLL RIDGE CAP: This luxurious, high-end choice looks great with asphalt or cedar shingles. Normally a shingled roof would get shingled ridge caps. Copper caps come in one piece for easy installation. Copper starts off shiny and will weather over time into a fine patina. 

Weathervanes have been used for centuries to detect the direction of wind.
WEATHERVANES
The copper roll ridge cap is definitely a snazzy roof upgrade for a storage shed like this Church Street.
COPPER ROLL RIDGE CAP
16x20 Vermont Cottage C with Decorative Cupola
DECORATIVE CUPOLA
12x16 Sugar Shack for maple syrup production
PREMIUM TRIM PACKAGE
As you can see, there are countless ways you can upgrade your roof. If you are on a limited budget, consider your needs and what can be done more efficiently now and what additional work will be required to add it on later. If you want to insulate your roof in the future, be sure to get vapor barrier and roof sheathing from the get-go. Options like Decorative Cupolas, and Weathervanes for architectural interest can be added at any time or even added to existing structures. Be sure to consider all your options when deciding on the perfect roof for your project.


DOWNLOAD this printable roofing guide to reference as you plan your cottage, shed, barn or garage. 

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If you have looked at any of our sheds and cottages and tiny houses, or flipped through a set of our DIY building plans, you would have seen that we use post and beam framing techniques in our builds. Why? It's because it is an age-old carpentry technique that has stood the test of time.


A post and beam timber frame being erected on top of a pier foundation.
Our Vermont Cabin utilizes mortise & tenon framing techniques.

Visit Stonehenge to see an example of an ancient structure built with stone posts and beams. Another classic example comes from the Amish, who are famous for raising timber frame barns. With the increasing demand for rustic-style homes, you can now find post and beam framing making a big comeback. Create an interesting interior with an exposed timber frame inside. The posts, beams and angle braces tie into both modern and antique interior decorating. Plus, did we mention how sturdy this framing style is? In our humble opinion, it’s the best!


Anatomy of a Post and Beam Building

Our designs start with conventional building techniques. A floor system contains skids and joists, or a treated sill plate. Rafters, a ridge pole, and collar ties frame the roof. Posts and beams tie into the wall framing.


Posts are the vertical pieces of lumber that support the horizontal beams.


Angle braces provide additional support from the posts to the beams.


Horizontal nailers installed several feet from the floor, and between posts, set up an extra point for fastening siding.


We utilize a few different techniques for building our post and beam structures, depending on the design. So, here we’ll talk about a few of those.


Half-Lap Joints

An example of how our post and beam walls are framed out.

Our storage sheds, mid-sized garages, and small cottages are the simplest of our designs. We build the posts, beams and angle braces with true-dimensional, 4x4 rough sawn hemlock lumber. We cut the ends of the beams in a way that allows two boards to lap over each other. Then the boards are nailed to the posts, along with the angle braces. The half-lap joint sits right on top of the post, for the strongest point of contact. A 4x4 piece of lumber weighs much less than our stockier boards, so one or two strong people can lift these pieces without machinery.


Box Beams

Diagram of a box beam on top of posts and angle braces.

This type of beam is installed on our Simple Garages. Because we build those garages with 6x6 hemlock posts, we need a thicker beam to hold up the massive roof. With a box beam post and beam structure, the post will have a 2-inch by 12-inch tenon notched out at the top. We sandwich this tenon between two 2x12 hemlock boards to create the beam. Next, the two box beams and tenons are secured together with a 2x6 top plate. The result is a box beam that is 6x14 inches in dimension. There is no denying that this hefty beam is fantastic. 


Mortise & Tenon aka Timber Frame

We designed our timber frames so that they are built with true-dimensional 8x8 hemlock lumber. We offer three buildings that utilize this framing technique. These buildings include the Vermont Cabin, Two Bay Garage, and 20x30 and 20x40 Sugar Shacks. Also, we sell Porch, overhang, or enclosure kit add-ons.



With these frames, the posts and angle braces have tenons. To create a tenon, we notch a protrusion out of the lumber. This locks together with a mortise. Mortises are notched-out holes that fit over the tenons. You will find mortises in the posts where the loft floor beams and angle braces connect to them. Wall beams also have mortises. They make contact with the posts, along with the floor joists. We utilize half laps in the beams, and like our smaller frames, these joints sit on top of the post. Finally, we secure everything together with ¾” wooden timber pegs.


Vermont Cabin with a built in porch, custom decorative cupola, and sliding glass doors.

Conclusion

Many shed and cottage companies use panelized or stick-built techniques. In many cases, these styles can be just fine. But there is a reason you don’t hear about historic buildings discovered that use these building styles—they just don't stand the test of time! If you are looking for a robust cabin, post and beam is the way to go. Setting up a house frame where the lumber interlocks together, with the siding added after, ensures a durable structure.


Looking for something roomier than what we offer? Visit our parent company, WHS Homes brands, Timber Peg, and American Post & Beam for more post and beam construction plan styles.  


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When Jamaica Cottage Shop began its journey decades ago, our founder, Domenic Mangano wanted to create a product made from locally sourced lumber. Instead of choosing subpar building materials, he decided to take advantage of the great timber available in the Northeast United States. The reason being that these wood species are well-suited for the local climate and create rugged structures. Fewer chemicals in the treatment of the wood mean less impact on the environment too, which is why natural wood is better. Working readily available lumber into the designs meant that new buildings could exist in harmony with the traditional homes and cabins that pepper New England, and the rest of the United States.


Western Red Cedar shingles is a stunning choice for siding or roofing. And it's all natural!

What Does True-Dimensional Mean? 

If you have ever purchased lumber at a building supply store you might have wondered why a 2x4 is really only 1-3/4” x 3-3/4”. Trimming off rough spots and defects during the milling process results in thinner boards.

With true-dimensional lumber, the width and girth will truly be what the measurement states it is. While the lumber will have a rough surface, this is often preferable. For one, a true-dimensional board is going to be much more rugged simply because it is thicker. Measuring will be simpler because you won’t have to account for that variance that happens in conventional lumber. If you are going for a rustic cabin aesthetic the rough sawn hemlock framing will instantly achieve the look.

Hemlock

Our mortise & tenon cabin is built out of big 8x8 rough sawn hemlock lumber boards for the posts and beams.
Hemlock is mainly used for framing most of our buildings

Hemlock lumber is milled from the Tsuga genus which is part of the pine family. This evergreen tree is abundant in the Northeast and Canada. Because Eastern Hemlock is so common in New England it is relatively inexpensive to harvest.


Where we use Hemlock:  

• Floor Framing - Skids, joists and blocking

• Decking for Floors - for basic out-buildings including storage sheds and firewood storage

• Wall Framing – Posts, beams, nailers, and rough openings for windows and doors

• Roof Framing – Rafters, collar ties, and ridge poles

Eastern White Pine

Board and Batten is the most popular all natural wood choice for siding our post and beam garages.
Eastern White Pine lumber is mostly used for siding and trim on our buildings shells.

Eastern White Pine lumber is harvestable all along the East Coast of the United States and Canada. Because it grows so fast this means that it is also quite affordable to produce. The natural, light color means it won’t need as many layers of paint or stain compared to darker woods. Eastern pine does turn a silvery gray color over time for those looking to achieve a weathered look.


Where we use Pine: 

• Siding - Board & batten, log cabin style, Adirondack live edge, shiplap, clapboard, and novelty styles

• Trim – Corner, windows and doors, fascia and shadow

• Doors – solid wood doors are constructed with two layers of 1-inch pine

• Floor Decking – 2-inch tongue & groove is a popular flooring upgrade

• Interior Sheathing – Roof sheathing, wall sheathing, and ceiling sheathing can be finished out with pine in shiplap or rough-sawn boards.

Kiln-Dried Spruce

Kiln dried spruce is a natural wood that we use for framing out our fully insulated buildings, like this pond house.
This Pond House is going to be insulated, so was built with a KD Spruce frame.

Post and beam buildings generally will show off the framing as part of the interior. Because of this, the frame is built with green lumber that dries over time. Green lumber is great for post and beam because it is less prone to cracking. However, if you plan on enclosing your frame with wood sheathing or drywall, it is a good idea to use dry lumber. Doing so will prevent moisture from being trapped inside your building, which will decrease the chances that mold and mildew will develop.


Where we use Spruce: 

• Floor Framing – joists and blocking in 3 or 4-season buildings

• Wall Framing – Posts, beams, nailers, and rough openings for windows and doors in 4-season buildings

• Roof Framing – Rafters, ridge poles, and collar ties in 4-season buildings

Cedar

Cedar shingle siding looks and smells wonderful on this Harvester cabin. Cedar wood can be used to finish out the interior for saunas too.
White cedar shingles were installed on this Hobby House. This type of siding is naturally rot resistant and will ward off many pests.

 Cedar is a gorgeous option we offer for the exterior, and interior, finishing off of our buildings. Because it naturally repels bugs and is rot-resistant we recommend cedar for structures built near large bodies of saltwater or in termite-prone areas. We find that Western Red is a hardier species than Eastern White and only offer it for roofing choices.


Where we use Cedar: 

• Siding – Shingles, Shakes or Clapboard in Eastern White, or Western Red

• Roofing – Shingles or Shakes in Western Red

• Sometimes used as interior wall and ceiling sheathing in prefab saunas.

When Unnatural Lumber is Advantageous

Pressure Treated Lumber

Our treated ramps sit directly on the ground. They provide easy access into storage sheds for wheelbarrows, bicycles, lawnmowers and tractors.
Since our ramps sit directly on the ground we build them out of pressure treated lumber for a long life.

While we prefer using all-natural wood as much as possible, we won’t turn our nose up to pressure-treated lumber. In some situations, it is going to be a better choice. Anywhere your building comes into direct contact with the ground, or gets constant outdoor use, pressure-treated will be recommended. The chemicals used in treated lumber will reduce the time before the lumber begins decaying, and it will repel most insects who love chomping on wood.


Where we use Pressure Treated: 

• Sill Plates – buildings without a floor system utilize a sill plate

• Floor Framing – Skids, joists, and blocking. We do not recommend upgrading the joists to be treated in insulated buildings

• Decking for Floors – Only recommended for storage buildings or porches

• Ramps – All of our ramps are treated since they come in direct contact with the ground

This cute little cabin comes with CDX decking for the flooring. It can have other types of flooring installed on top of it like laminate boards, vinyl, tiles, or carpet.
CDX Plywood works great as a shed floor, or it can be a strong base for adding tile, carpet or other types of flooring on top.

CDX Plywood

Another type of lumber we use is CDX plywood. If you have ever visited a big box store with a shed display you may have noticed that they use flaky-looking plywood called T1-11. It feels pretty flimsy, and the sheets of thin wood peel apart over time. CDX is a higher grade of plywood with larger sheets glued together. This makes a great subfloor or is perfectly fine for the decking in a storage shed or workshop.


Where we use CDX:

• Floor Decking – in storage sheds, workshops, or as the subfloor in cabins, cottages, and tiny houses.
• 3 and 4-season buildings – to encase the insulation inside the floor joists

Conclusion

Picking out high-quality materials for your shed build will mean your building will last a long time. Natural wood choices have advantages like looking attractive and blending into the landscape much better than synthetic options. Rough-sawn, true-dimensional lumber is sturdy meaning your building won’t wobble when you walk inside. Long-lasting structures might cost a little more upfront. In the long term, you will save money and time. And did we mention how great pine and cedarwood smells?